Care

I make knives from two basic steel types: High Carbon and Stainless steels.

High Carbon:

A large majority of my work is going to be made from a high carbon steel. These blades are typically forged blades, they may or may not have hammer mark and left behind carbon scale giving a unique, rustic look. These blades are going to require a bit more care with use, handling, and storage. 

• NEVER put custom knives into a dishwasher
• NEVER let these knives soak in a sink
• Wipe down blades during use, this includes both in the kitchen and in the field
• Clean blade as best as you can after use in the field before holstering your blade
• Wash in warm soapy water, use a non abrasive blue scotch bright pad if needed. Dry thoroughly immediately. 
• Use one of the following recommended rust preventatives:

1. EDCi : This is my preferred rust preventive and steel care easy to use, great to throw one of their bottles in your hunting bag to carry in the field.  https://www.aegissolutionsusa.com
2.  Wicked WAX: This product is great for everything, the blades, handles, leather and just about anything else, this is an all natural food safe product. https://dipreteforge.com/product/wicked-wax-2-oz-tin/
3.  Tsubaki Oil: This is a commonly used oil in sharpening and in Japanese culture, it is a great food safe oil for your kitchen and sharpening stones.   https://www.korin.com/Tsubaki-Knife-Oil_2

• It is recommended to not store your knives in the sheaths when not in use, leather holds moisture and moisture causes rust and issues. 
• Kitchen knives should be stored on a magnetic strip, or in its included sheath when used daily, just be sure the blade is clean and dry before storing. 
• These blades will develop a patina with use, colors will vary depending on what is being cut and how the blade is cared for and handled. In my opinion a well developed patina tells a story and shows a history of a well used blade.

Stainless:

From time to time I will make some blades in stainless steels, these include both field and kitchen knives.  These blades are a little more relaxed when it comes to staining. Stainless Steel is exactly that, STAIN-LESS. It can still stain and rust, especially in a salt water environment.  Stainless blades are also much harder blades, which makes sharpening a bit more of a task versus high carbon blades. 

• NEVER put custom knives into a dishwasher
• NEVER let these knives soak in a sink
• Wipe down blades during use, this includes both in the kitchen and in the field
• Clean blade as best as you can after use in the field before holstering your blade
• Wash in warm soapy water, use a non abrasive blue scotch bright pad if needed. Dry thoroughly immediately. 
• Use one of the following recommended rust preventatives if you see fit.

1. EDCi : This is my preferred rust preventive and steel care easy to use, great to throw one of their bottles in your hunting bag to care in the field.  https://www.aegissolutionsusa.com
2.  AXE WAX: This product is great for everything, the blades, handles, leather and just about anything else, this is an all natural food safe product. https://dipreteforge.com/product/wicked-wax-2-oz-tin/
3.  Tsubaki Oil: This is a commonly used oil in sharpening and in Japanese culture, it is a great food safe oil for your kitchen and sharpening stones.   https://www.korin.com/Tsubaki-Knife-Oil_2

• It is recommended to not store your knives in the sheaths when not in use, leather holds moisture and moisture causes rust and issues. 
• Kitchen knives should be stored on a magnetic strip, or in its included sheath when used daily, just be sure the blade is clean and dry before storing. 

 

Sharpening / Honing:

I make blades with 3 different grind profiles, each with purpose for the knife and each has a different approach to sharpening. The most common style you will see in my field knives are a full convex blade, these blades do not have the bevel most people are familiar with in a common kitchen or pocket knife. These blades come to zero at the cutting edge and typically are a very strong and very sharp cutting edge. These are best maintained by a leather strop or hone. The next most common I make are hollow ground blades that will have that common bevel most are familiar with, these bevels are set freehand with a belt grinder and finished on sharpening stones. I do them by feel so I cannot tell you the exact angle used. These edges are razor sharp when they leave the shop. The final type of blade is a flat ground blade, These blades are commonly going to be found in my culinary knives, the cutting edges will also vary from both the common beveled edge and a convex edge. Sharping of blades will depend on the use and cutting surfaces and what is being cut. In the kitchen only cut on plastic or wood cutting boards.  

 

Warranty: 

All knives made by me are guaranteed for life under normal, non-commercial use. I use the finest materials I can source to build the finest products I can. 

I will repair or replace an item that becomes damaged or broken within the products intended use. This will be determined on a case by case basis. 

Stolen and Lost Items are not covered.

Examples of Improper uses of knives. 

• Using a blade as a screw driver and the tip breaks or bends, this is not covered, however I will repair the product for a small fee plus shipping.
• Using a blade as a pry bar to dispatch ivories from an animals skull, split joints while field dressing or other prying use and the tip, or blade breaks. This is not covered
• Using a kitchen knife to baton wood,  and the edge received damage. This is not covered.
• Using a blade as a shovel and the edge taking chips, This is not covered
• Trying to chop a concrete block in half. This is not covered
• Using a blade for anything other than its intended use is not covered. Knives are tools, This is no one tool for everything. Use the proper tool for the job.

Examples of Proper Use of blades and damage incurred.

• You drop the knife in the field and the tip bends or breaks, send the knife back to me and I will repair the blade and bring it back to new and return
• You drop the knife in the kitchen and you get damage, return the knife for repair.
• You use a chopping blade (clever, camp knife, hatchet) and your edge takes damage, or receives failure, send the product back for repair, if the damage is far to extensive for repair, I will make you a replacement. 

If your blades need sharpening, clean up, develops rust or is bought second hand and you would like it like new again. You are always welcome to send products in for this service for a small fee which is determined by what exactly is requested, plus return shipping.